Hair dyeing isn’t as simple as mixing some chemicals together and slapping it onto your clients’ locks. It’s a precise, mathematical process that can determine whether the result comes out platinum or brassy, mocha or murky, or in desperate need of a salon follow-up. The right hair dye to developer ratio will make a tremendous difference in the shade, tone, and hue of your handiwork, so knowing how to mix hair color is one of the most important skills in your arsenal. 

This article will outline how to measure hair color and developer, including what tools you’ll need, how much developer to use, pro-tips on mixing dyes, plus frequently asked questions on the mixing process. 

How to Measure Hair Color and Developer

Learning how to measure hair color and developer is only one part of the dyeing process. In order to properly configure your hair dye to developer ratio, you’ll need the right tools. (These can be purchased from any beauty supply store or from online retailers such as Amazon.)

Measuring cups

Measuring cups can help you get the amount of hair color and developer you need for a successful dye job. These are relatively inexpensive, typically costing anywhere between $1 and $10. Make sure they’re made of plastic and not metal, as the metal can cause a chemical reaction with your materials and change the way the color comes through. 

Bowl

Bowls are another useful tool for measuring hair dye and developer. While you can use them in tandem with cups and scales – and many professionals do – some bowls come with their own markings for measurements. Use plastic instead of metallic bowls to avoid a chemical reaction with your dyes. Bowls are largely affordable, typically ranging between $3-$15 depending on the brand. 

Digital scale

If you prefer to work by weight, a digital scale can help you portion out how much developer to use with your dye. Digital scales offer more precision than eyeballing a measuring line, leading to better, more accurate color results. Digital scales vary in price depending on the features, though you can find plenty between $20 and $50. 

How Much Developer to Use: Hair Dye to Developer Ratios

Knowing how to measure hair color and developer is key to your success as a hairstylist. It not only boosts your reputation as a master colorist, but can also help you reduce waste in your salon. Here, we outline some common hair dye to developer ratios and what type of result you can expect from each. 

1:1 Hair dye to developer ratio

An equal parts ratio of 1:1 is best for working with single-shade dyes close to the natural color or covering a few grays. Most developers contain a certain percentage of hydrogen peroxide that lifts the cuticle. allowing the color to seep into the hair shaft. A 1:1 ratio will have a less dramatic dye effect than other ratios. 

1:1.5 Hair dye to developer ratio

A 1:1.5 dye to developer ratio means one part color to one-and-a-half parts developer. Adding more developer will help moderately lighten the color (by one to two shades), and can help treat resistant grays.

1:2 Hair dye to developer ratio

If your client is looking to go several shades lighter, then a 1:2 ratio is your best bet. A 1:2 ratio means for every part dye, you add two parts developer. However, keep in mind that the more developer you add, the less pigment you get. 

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Pro Tips on Mixing Hair Dye and Developer

Feeling confident about how to measure hair color and developer? We believe in you too! But before you seat your first client, consider the following tips on how to mix hair color and developer together to get the best results. 

Mix thoroughly for even color

Hair dye to developer ratios require precise measurements to get right, which means you must completely mix your chemicals together until they’re smooth to maximize their effect. Pour slowly to make sure you don’t overdo it and waste your supplies. 

Follow manufacturer instructions

Regardless of how skilled you are at mixing colors, always thoroughly read the manufacturer instructions to protect your clients’ scalp and reduce the risk of unwanted results. Double-check the labels to ensure you’re using the right products for the job

Store developer correctly

Keep your hair developer, along with your other hair dyeing products, in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Unless the manufacturer’s packaging suggests otherwise, avoid refrigerating your developers and dyes. Extreme heat or cold can affect the chemical composition of your materials, so try to keep them at room temperature at all times. 

Manage Your Salon Effortlessly with GlossGenius

Mastering the mix of developer and dye will secure your success at your hair salon. Hair color can be challenging to perfect, especially given the wide variety of hair textures, lengths, and thicknesses you may have to work with. Each hair type can respond differently to the same process, so understanding your ratios, what developer to use, and how they can affect your applications will make it easier to figure out how to mix your materials. 

GlossGenius is the ultimate platform for professional hairstylists, offering features like Online Booking that ensures anyone can make an appointment with you anytime, without the need to pick up the phone. Inventory Management will help track your products and send you automated refill reminders so you never run out of stock. Automate payroll, track performance, and edit employee schedules with Team & Staff, while gathering valuable client insights with our Client Management features. And, with No-Show Protection, you can protect your time and your revenue with card-on-file deposits and custom cancellation policies. 

Try GlossGenius today and get 14 days free!

FAQs

Can I mix different brands of developer and dye?

Research is mixed on whether it’s okay to mix brands of developer and dye. Some brands may have different formulations in seemingly similar products, affecting their texture or how they mix together, which can negatively alter the final dyeing outcome. When possible, try to use the developer made for the color brand you use to avoid any unwelcome color surprises. 

What happens if I use too much developer?

Developer is the chemical substance that activates the hair dye and allows it to penetrate the hair shaft, depositing color and leaving a shiny, new hue. Without developer, the color will simply sit on the surface of the hair and fade quickly with each subsequent wash. However, a lot of developer will open the hair cuticles too much, damaging the hair and making it dry and brittle. While this will lighten the hair a fair amount, it will also desaturate the color of the dye, resulting in less pigmentation. 

How to choose the right developer?

When determining what developer to use, you first need to consider your client’s hair goals. Developers come with different levels of hydrogen peroxide, which will control how light or dark the color appears. 

• 10 volume developer: Containing 3% hydrogen peroxide, 10 volume developers have minimal lift, which means they’re best for toners, glazes, or going a single shade darker. 
• 20 volume developer:: With 6% hydrogen peroxide, 20 volume developers can lift hair approximately one to two shades (and even more so when combined with bleach). This type of developer can cover bigger areas of gray, and also help slightly darken hair. 
• 30 volume developer:: At 9% hydrogen peroxide content, a 30 volume developer is typically used for lightening darker hair about two to three shades. This strength developer can deposit plenty of pigment without overly damaging the hair and scalp. 
• 40 volume developer:: Containing 12% hydrogen peroxide, 40 volume developers aren’t for the inexperienced salonist. This strength developer can lighten hair several shades, and is most suitable for dye-resistant locks or those looking to go platinum blonde. 

How long should you leave a 20 volume developer on?

A 20 volume developer typically needs 30-45 minutes to process, though the exact number of minutes depends on the hair type, current shade, and desired outcome. Giving clients lighter shades will require more leave-in time, however, it’s important to note that 20 volume developers can only lighten hair so much – so if you’re not getting the color you’re after, you may need to switch to a 30 or 40 volume developer rather than leaving the 20 volume developer on for longer.

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